Riding the Waves on Tico Time

Riding the Waves on Tico Time

20130624_160156The little “wanna be” surfer in me, definitely got her fill of wave craving. The biggest adjustment from 12 years in California to 6 months of living in Atlanta so far has been missing my romance with the ocean.  It was a blessing to return and divine grace that we had such a perfect combination in our group. The real surfer in the group, Jon was very helpful in picking out the best surf spot, while respecting the locals and their territory. We got to experience two days of surfing, at Playa Grande and near Playa Tamarindo.


20130624_160139The first day involved me riding a few waves and the next day was the waves riding me. Lol.  Jon was loving life as he glided along a long, smooth, and graceful flow of waves, connecting into each other on his Pura Vida long board. Ben who was learning to surf was having a blast catching white water and experimenting with the idea of riding a wave. I had my round nose fun board the first day and was stoked to be one with the waves again. Being connected with nature even if it’s short lived and long awaited is worth all the yearing!

The next day was big wave surf, head high and above, so I thought I would try a “fish”style short board. That was like going from kava kava tea to expresso coffee. I had no idea how fast surfing gets on a board like that. It is like there is no reaction time just do it or drown, lol.  Needless to say there was one huge set that came through and I sucked at duck diving. After attempting to catch the wave, short board style at the very top of the wave, I fell off a big wave and was instantly served up the power of that wave. I was glad I had done some consistent strength training to prepare for this moment, as I got tossed under the wave.  I was able to hold my breath just long enough to let the 3 seemingly endless sets of waves roll over me.  It is easy to doubt the presence of God sometimes, and this was a great reminder that I was still meant to be alive. I finally popped up like a seal and my boggie board friend I made out in the ocean looked at me like I was crazy, daring and then smiled because I was alive. Lol. Even when we know we shouldn’t do things, we do them anyway if the drive is strong enough. Then we have to ask ourselves is that something leading somewhere beneficial? 

20130624_155501Being in the ocean reminded me of how purifying the ions of the water are and how rejuvenating it is to be near Mother Earth’s powerful oceans. I decided to make it a mission to visit the ocean much more often and am currently planning a group trip to Wilmington, NC. Of course, this time, I will be renting a fun board, from my learn by experience preference and making new friends in the ocean again:-)  We know how tempting it is to give up after a very painful experience, such as wiping out on big waves, getting your heart broken in a relationship, suffering a bodily injury in competition, or just repeatedly failing at something, thinking you will never succeed. In times like these, I like to remind myself, what could one be missing out on by playing it safe?

20130626_123631Life is a daily choice of taking risks. Some days we live and some days we are just here.  I like to ask myself where is the yoga practice in my life today? Where is the expansion of my body, exploring a new movement,  my heart willing to crack a little further open, and where can my mind use some inner fine tuning? Upcoming adventure is the amazing climb up to arenal active volcano.


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